>>>FROM 4. SEPTEMBER 2012
“Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better.”
-Samuel Beckett, Worstward Ho
Hello everyone.
Perhaps this feels like a funny name for a blog about doing something
so exotic as moving to Kyoto Japan and studying the Japanese way of tea
for a year.
Here’s why: I have come to feel like a massive proportion of tea— the practice
of the practice of tea is learning how to be wrong. I decided this long
before I came here to Kyoto. Many of you will have heard me talk about
it before. Doing Tea is all-encompassing and fluid. And it’s largely
repertoire based— unlike many authoritative western institutions, it’s
not about the archive and the written word— as Hamana-sensei told us in
orientation, it’s not a high art, it’s an art of everyday life. In other
words, it’s about performance. And one thing we often say about
performance is that it’s protean, it’s contingent. And that’s nice,
because it’s flexible, and that’s really hard because it sometimes feels
there’s nothing solid to hold on to. Or so many solid things to juggle
that we could never possibly get it all right. It’s especially hard for
us newbies (the kohai) right now, because every single little thing is
new, and we are trying to learn every kata (form), every shikata (way of
doing things) at once. But if 13 years of practice is any indication,
it doesn’t stop being hard. So this is about learning how to fail
better than before, to fail with grace. And as Gary-sensei told us today
in our first lecture class, to always make new mistakes and not old
ones.
Now, on with the rest of it. Next come a bunch of my
first few days’ thoughts. It’s long, it ends abruptly because guess
what, it’s really busy and it’s impossible to do everything justice! Ah
well. I am very happy to hear your thoughts. I’m working to figure out
comments and how to enable conversation here.
~cheers
M.
[This was written at the end of my first full day here, August 30.]
The plane.
SFO was pretty simple. I made the airport with plenty of time—
met a couple who were leaving for their honeymoon on the BART and talked
over our respective trips once the crowds all got off in central SF. I
evangelized Tea pretty effectively I guess. They asked if there was
someplace in San Francisco that they could check it out, so I wrote down
“Urasenke” for them to look up the center. They even helped me to get
my four bags into the international terminal upon arrival. I managed to
check both bags on the cusp of 50 pounds (probably both were almost half
a pound over. I had loaded one up with a bunch of the heavy stuff out
of my carryon, but had to put it back in carryon.)
A wacky thing
happened on the plane that’s never happened to me before, especially on a
long flight— all of a sudden, after a couple movies, a terrible meal, a
short sleep, there were only 2 hours left of the flight, and I had a
sudden wish that there was more time left on the plane. I wished it
wouldn’t touch down in Osaka. Obviously, being stuck in a tiny seat with
two strangers between you and egress isn’t REALLY what I wanted to do
longer, but the separateness of being in a little pillbox suspended over
the ocean with really almost nothing to do but watch movies felt like a
sort of wonderful reprieve between pressure filled weeks. Nevertheless,
land we did, and I made it through immigration— everyone with visas
ended up in a special line and I sort of panicked when I saw they were
taking pictures of us and handing out our gaijin cards before we made it
through— I pulled my hair down and tried to wipe my face and silently
cursed the bureaucrats who thought it was okay to take our everyday id
photos at the end of a transpacific flight. Luckily, I realized when
she handed me my card (mild surprise when she read that I was going to
Urasenke as a student), they used the photos we sent with our visa
applications, not the photos they take at the airport. 安心だった!!!
Cone
met me at the airport (THANKS CONE!) and we headed back to K-to via
Haruka express. Multiple phone calls assured the office that I was on my
way, then we hopped in a cab with my stuff (lovely white-gloved cabbie
as always, although he required me to help him heft each suitcase into
the cab. No complaints here. I’m always intensely embarrassed when other
people handle my stuff for me.
»>
Last night by the
time I made it to bed at 10pm, the onslaught of information on top of
the onslaught of a week of travel was rapidly eroding my ability to stay
upright in the world, in a literal and emotional sense.
My dorm
room is a miniaturized version of my apartment in Kawabe. A narrow room
with a single bed and a chest of drawers, a tiny balcony, entered via a
long skinny corridor with a tiny sink/single burner on one side and
doors to a small shower/bath, closet, and a toilet on the other. I even
have my own washing machine and a shoe cupboard! There are virtually no
storage spaces or shelves anywhere. Three tiny wire shelves in the
kitchen space, nothing in the bath, the top of the drawers and the low
table. (Is it kotatsu? I’ll have to check.)
I woke up for good
about 4:15 (I think. I guessed on the time last night when I set my
alarm clock—my very first cell phone from living in Japan 11 years ago
and still the best alarm clock I’ve ever had.) I thought it was almost
5, so I decided to get up and start being awake, and starting putting
things away and organizing. Then I checked the phone again, and it was
only about 4:30, so I’d misread some numbers somewhere.
The
clothing is of course an issue. I’m going to wear my wool suit skirt and
a cream plain button down. But then I suddenly realized tights or
stockings. Ugh. It’s 90 plus degrees out here. The humidity is hovering
at 100%, and wool PLUS stockings? And anyway, I didn’t bring any
hyper-conservative beige ones. I can tell it’s half a battle because I
don’t know and don’t own the right things, but a good half of it is my
own reluctance (near refusal) to capitulate to standard modes of dress.
Is this my first zen test of self-denial, and what is the right course?
Is it actually desirable or right to attempt a complete and utter
transformation into a costume of conformity, or is it fair to try to
find a middle ground in which I feel a little like myself?
…on the
other hand, Sarah (fellow newbie) told me I looked like an old school
teacher in my blouse and ’70s suit skirt, so maybe that’s kind of
awesome by itself. Maybe I can’t help but look like me.
Most careful on day one, from there maybe I can feel it out.
Day 1:
Rule
number one: 10 minutes early is 5 minutes late. We are observing this
rule by meeting with our sempai to be led to our appointments 45 minutes
before they begin. This is still easy because the jet lag has me up at
about 4am. On the first day of orientation, all the girls met in the
lobby of the building— we have little nameplates that we turn for “in”
or “out” in the genkan, and notebooks for signing out when we go
anywhere but school. Oh, and that 10pm curfew. Oh yes. I’m telling
myself to think of it not as a ridiculous constraint on my fundamental
adult (I AM OVER 30. SHEESH.) freedoms, but rather a chance to have a
year of plenty of sleep, plenty of reflection time, plenty of self care.
A freedom from obligations rather than a curtailment.
Later, Hamana
sensei says all this is really more because of the gakuensei— the
Japanese professional college students. Some of them aren’t even 18
yet, and this IS Japan, so we are sort of caught in the rules for much
younger students.
So, that extra 45 minutes: we meet in the
lobby, we head out, and because we have 45 minutes to walk across the
street, the sempai (the elder students) take the kohai (younger— US)
around to all the key buildings. We’re eight people, and we drift slowly
here and there like seaweed in the current or clouds in the sky,
talking and getting things pointed out. We walk past the Urasenke
headquarters to the gravel walkway through the temple (unrelated to
Urasenke) to Ogawa-dori— the public street that still counts as “inside”
Urasenke. Once we’re on this path, we have to stop and bow to everyone
we see and greet them. Across Ogawa-dori from the temple is Kabuto-mon,
the entrance to Konnichian, the house where the Sen family lives. We
bow toward the gate (there’s a statue of Rikyu somewhere in there,
invisible) every time we pass it. We bow and greet security guards,
everyone who passes, and every car, since we don’t know who might be
inside. We don’t have to speak to the cars though, just bow.
We four
kohai newbies have to follow our sempai everywhere like ducklings; they
lead us to the Gakuen—the school rooms with tea rooms on the ground
floor, classrooms on the second floor, and a huge open tatami hiroma on
the top floor— we will be cleaning this huge room every day. Across the
street from Gakuen is the Shokudo—the cafeteria.
At lunch time this
circuit to get to the shokudo is side-scrolling videogame worthy— how to
navigate Ogawa-dori carrying our stuff, stopping short to bow and greet
every person who comes along. On this first day, when we break from
orientation and getting our papers in order we are instructed to meet
the sempai in the shokudo. But there are so many rules, and we’ve never
seen the inside of shokudo yet, we don’t know if we’re supposed to go
inside, or wait for them outside. Paivi is sending text messages asking
if we can go inside at noon, but noon is also when virtually all the
office workers throughout the complex come to lunch so we’re stuck just
at the door like a confused greeting committee bobbing up and down and
up and down and up and down konnichiwa, konnichiwa,
konnichiwakonnichiwakonnichiwakonnichiwakonnichiwakonnichiwakonnichiwa
while we wait. Then, rereading the original summons, we decide we CAN go
inside, and there they are, waiting for us relaxed at a table, out of
the line of bowing-greeting fire.
Obviously, even in the three
days since things have gotten a lot more comfortable. Still, everything
is still brand new. In fact, lessons, which might seem like the most
stressful part, are really the easiest part. I guess that’s the part we
were all already familiar with. And seriously, if there’s one thing
I’ve been practicing assiduously for the last 30 years, it’s school.
No comments:
Post a Comment